Monday, January 30, 2012

To Narnina and Back Again: A Johnny's Tale

I am glued to a traditional Tibetan stove.  The stove is fire-fueled and boasts three different types of pots and cookware.  A large round pot holds warm bitter tea.  It's one of three sources of warmth on this crisp, dark evening.  The second is Ama's smile.  I think I'm smiling at her too much, but I can't help it.  She possesses a rare warmth that exudes from her eyes, her smile, and is most potent in her laugh.  Her face, weathered and strong, sits above fantastically colorful clothing full of reds, oranges, and turquoise-blue.  Her band-aid-ed hands suggest a culinary prowess that is perhaps slowed by age.  She notices that I've taken a sip of my tea, and brings over a large ladle to refill the few sips missing.  It is rather bitter tea.

In the room with me is a cat, that I'm sure is actually a dog--it begs like a dog, it wants attention like a dog, and it eats like a dog, devouring hunks of hard Tibetan bread.  Two of Ama's grandchildren are also in the room: a 4-year-old who has the energy of...a 4-year-old, and a 10-year-old with a goofy grin.  Earlier, the 4-year-old was showing me his super-duper-light-up sword.  I must have killed him a dozen times.  He seemed to want to learn some of the English alphabet, but really desired to call every letter "A, B, C" over and over.  We also played what seemed to be his favorite game of all: crawl on the laowai (foreigner).

The third source of warmth in the room is the walls.  Four walls and the ceiling have been hand painted with bright designs.  A landscape of Lhasa's Potala Palace adorns one of the walls.  The swastikas on the walls give me pause, even though I know they were Buddhist first.  The warmth of the walls, Ama's presence, and the stove are well-appreciated by my tired body.

Today started at 5:30AM, after going to bed a bit too late.  I wore the latest in traveler fashion: a large puffy coat, sweat pants, hiking boots, a large pack, and a goofy grin: never leave home without it.  At the bus station, I boarded and picked a seat.  I fought the urge to get off and pee, a decision I would regret.  Two hours into the bus ride, I pulled out my Chinese-English dictionary looking for 'bathroom' in desperation.  Luck was on my side, the bus pulled over as I found the word.  I sprinted to the restroom and as I exited a man gestured for me to pay.  I gestured "how much?".  He held up a finger.  Sir, I would've paid you so much more.  Two hours down; around eight left.

I returned to my seat next to 'morning breath'.  Maybe she was a very sweet girl, but she kept positioning her mouth in such a way that no matter how I moved, her breathe flowed right into my nose/mouth.  After peeing however, and finding myself in a far better mood, I smiled at her.  Which ended up insuring that every time the bus stopped, she would politely let me pass.

At the edge of the Chengdu basin, we tunneled through mountains.  The route to Jiuzhaigou snakes through mountain passes and valleys, while climbing and climbing.  Hairpin turn after hairpin turn left my stomach turning down my offers of food.  The river, which started off quite murky, changed to blue-green and became more and more beautiful as we drove.  Eventually we were soaring though a plateau at an elevation close to 4,000 meters.  We climbed away from the plateau and crossed the 4,000 meters mark in six inches of snow!  The bus stopped to put on its chains and the rest of the journey was a lot slower as we descended down 2,000 meters.

The scenery on the journey was breath-taking (or perhaps the lack of oxygen).  The windows prevented good pictures, but I am left with wonderful memories.  The snow-covered pine trees, mists, and small stone towns were out of this world, and thus, obviously, Narnia.

Eventually, the bus driver called "lao wai."  I guessed it was my time to get off.  I found myself across from two big advertisements in a thin mountain pass.  I called Zhou Ma, the host of the home-stay, and found my way (with the help of a too eager cab driver) to the family's Tibetan restaurant.

Zhou Ma, who speaks a bit of English, warmly greeted me.  She is Tibetan, but wears trendy clothing which reveals her youth.  Her brother takes me to Ama's, where I will stay.  He wears a fedora, likes music, and is very smiley.  We take his jeep off the main road, and up a very very narrow 'road' to Ama's.  Tibetans, and thus prayer flags, are everywhere, including the entrance of the house.

Dinner is served soon after I arrive and is a bit of disappointment.  The yak meat is tough and not very flavorful and the spice offered to dunk the yak meat in is a bit too much.  The potatoes, however, are a real treat.  I learned later that they are "the best potatoes in years".  Had I possessed more self-awareness, I may have realized that the reason the food didn't taste too good may have been because I wasn't feeling good.  Two hours after dinner, that self-awareness came as I vomited the contents of the day into their Western toilet.

I hadn't thrown up in years and was surprised by how easy it was nowadays, as compared to the stomach flu days of my youth.  Of course, with my Mom 10,000 miles away, I finally chose to follow her advice and breathe deeply and relax.  My task completed, I returned to the warmth of the room and gestured what had happened.  Ama returned with a vile of brown liquid after gesturing a bus turning a lot.  I drank the contents of the mysterious liquid.  She gestured that I'd wake up tomorrow feeling better.  I hope so.  I hope that it's just bus-sick and not altitude sickness.  I have never been 4,000 meters high until today, nor have I even slept at 2,000 meters.  Thus this weekend would be the highest I had ever lived.

The calmness I felt while sick alone in a place where no one speaks my language showed me that I possess some strength.  Is this why I travel? For a chance to prove myself strong?

Thoughts written down, stomach calm, I decided to get some sleep.  The electric blanket and the heaps of other blankets made for a cozy nest, even if the room temperature was quite cold.  After I was settled in bed, my roommate showed up: Eric, a PhD candidate.  From California originally, he had made Switzerland his home for the past 10 years.  We chatted for a bit before sleep.

Though I didn't sleep much--my stomach kept refusing to lie comfortably in any position.  When I can't sleep, I use to freak out about not sleeping.  But in college I came to realize how stupid that is: it's very hard to fall asleep when you're stress yourself out.  So nowadays, I just relax and think that at least I'm resting if not sleeping.  I find this increases my chances of falling asleep sooner.

I awoke feeling still a bit out of it, but decided, after a quick breakfast of a fried egg, Tibetan bread and honey, and yak-butter tea, to go ahead with my plan of exploring Jiuzhaigou.  The yak butter tea was interesting.  As Eric warned, it tastes a lot better than it smells.  With chunks of nuts, yak butter, sugar, and tea, it was an exotic blend of flavors.  Each sip improved its taste, and eventually I was sipping it happily.

It had snowed and the whole landscape had been transformed into a winter wonderland.  As it rarely, if ever, snows in Chengdu, I was bent on seeing snow during this break and thrilled at my good fortune: not only had it snowed, but it was a blue-sky sunny day!

Zhou Ma's brother picked me up and drove me, Kerrin, and the two boys.  Kerrin is a Dublin bloke who has been working at the park, helping with their Eco-Tourism as well as translating.  He pointed me to the front entrance when we arrived.  I paid for the entrance ticket (100RMB for 2-day in winter) and a bus ticket (80RMB/day).

Jiuzhaigou is Narnia.  Of this I am sure.  Vividly-bright blue waters, sweeping waterfalls, and peaks reaching out towards the sun.  I explored the park with the help of a map from a German-South African couple.  The crisp air and the sun started making me feel better.  I munched on some honey and bread from Ama and a very wrinkled apple, siting and soaking in my view: mineral-colored water with a backdrop of snow and peaks.

The upside of Jiuzhaigou in winter is the absence of people.  There are plenty of pictures of the National Park in other seasons with people shuffling on boardwalks, no space to breathe.  The downside in winter is that they park staff are lazy (or not there) and as the admission is cheaper, they don't pay anyone to clear much of the paths (or just don't do it).  Fine by me with my hiking boots, but because many Chinese tourists refuse to wear anything other than high heels (even up mountains), much of the park is closed off with "Fire Danger" signs.  I was temped to jump signs, but everything that I wanted to see what open, just not the paths between, so the bus ticket was very handy.

Jiuzhaigou gets its name from the nine (jiu) Tibetan villages in the valley.  They somehow escaped much of the Han people for many years and are now protected as they are in the National Park (and a major course of tourism).  My second day in the park found me touring with Eric, Anne, and Sarah.  Anne, a senior at MIT, and Sarah, her sister on a gap year before U of Chicago, were exploring China together.  Sarah had been in class in China in the fall and was finishing her Chinese adventure.  I could not believe a Vassar grad, PhD candidate, a future MIT grad (and Md), and a U Chicago future student had found each other in this place!  Granted Eric's PhD was about Jiuzhaigou, but still, what are the odds?  They all spoke Chinese, pretty fluently, which made me not feel left out, but driven to learn some more Chinese.

We toured much of the same sites I'd seen before (as with winter closing, there just isn't as much to do).  But the lighting was different and the company was nice.  Our first stop, a big lake, proved to be a chance to Macgyver.  Anne dropped her lens cap (of a very nice camera) into the frozen lake.  The boardwalk was a ways above the surface, but I happen to posses these crazy-long-arms.  With the help of an umbrella and the combined weight of Sarah and Eric on my legs, I was able to scoop up the lens cap on the umbrella and save the day!  If that didn't work, we did have a piece of gum.  Anne had given up on the lens cap after she dropped, but once we started trying to help, we all knew it had to happen.  I still can't believe it worked as my arm was just long enough to barely touch the ice with the umbrella.  Needless to say I got a wonderful ab workout as I braced myself from falling into the strange mineral water.

After another beautiful day, the four of us headed back to the restaurant where we ordered yak meat baozi (round steamed dumplings).  The yak meat was out-of-this-world good.  After a long day walking around, and feeling much better with a returned appetite, I savored each bite.

On the bus the next morning, I thought about what a wonderful weekend I had.  After all the stress of grading, parent-meetings (where 7 of my 30 students' parents showed up), it was nice to escape to such a wonderful place.  I'll never forget the morning of my second day as I watched and photographed Ama call her sheep from a few houses over.  They walked down the road to her.  No dogs, no aggravation, nothing.   Just well-trained sheep.  Thinking back to the day I sheep-headed in NZ until I was hoarse, I was beyond amused by the Tibetan way: so simple, so effective.

The bus ride back was shorter and I felt much better, though at that 4,000 meter mark I did try to remain super hydrated.  If you ever find yourself in Sichuan province or Chengdu, going to Jiuzhaigou is a must.  Not only is it a world-heritage site, but it really is a magical place.  Though, you may only need the two to three days recommended in summer crowds!  And you must stay at Zhou Ma's Homestay.  It was 180RMB/night, but in includes breakfast, dinner, light lunch, and transportation to and from the park and help with buses.  It's about 30 US, so really, it's a steal considering your lodging becomes part of the reason for going.

Man, it's nice to be on break!

Sunday, January 29, 2012

End of Semester 1

This is an older entry, I've been trying to stay busy over break which started two weeks ago, one left.

After thinking long and hard about what to do with my class and their final exam, I made a decision.  I averaged the grades they gave themselves with the ones I gave them.  Seeing as no group received a higher grade than a D from me, as I was a bit appalled at their work, I didn't think that was fully fair.  Some of my students had e-mailed me trying to explain, and although I still think I was right to be upset, I realized that we (the students and I) had very different expectations about this presentation exam.

Thus, I wrote my students a very very long e-mail in which I explained my academic history--where I'm coming from.  Then I explained what they should've known about their exam (no talking, no profanity, etc).  Finally, I explained where the disconnect might be and then offered them a choice.  I told them I'm your psychology teacher until May.  I've made my choice and will do my best to teach you.  But you have a choice: do you want to learn from me?  (I gave them the, if yes..., but refused to write an if no as that's not hopefully a realistic option...finger crossed).

It may not be teaching-kosher, and this may be where I show the fact that I have never been trained at teaching.  However, I got a WONDERFUL response from my students.  Some showed critical thinking and self-awareness while writing apologies for their behavior for the whole year.  I couldn't believe that they even read the e-mail!  Also, they explained a lot of their side about this experience; something that is really helpful.

Maybe I've watched too many "Freedom Writers" type movies where teachers show tough love and get a response, but that's me!  I am a teacher who will explain to my students, especially as they are 17 and 18, why they are in trouble.  We learned in psychology that that's good parenting and boy are teachers parent-figures.  Yes, you may have had a bad teacher once, or twice, but some of those "bad" teachers are great teachers--ones like good parents who are tough, but loving.  Though as there are strict teacher-student guidelines, it's much harder as a teacher to show the loving side and, often, not always appropriate.  So I try to show it with explanation.

I had to send, let's say, Walt, a kid who rarely does any work out to the principal's office as he refused to do any work after several warnings.  I finished teaching the period and then rushed to the office to find him chatting with other students!  The principal was out as Mark often is as he has another school, but I can't send kids to the Chinese principal as he's irrational when it comes to discipline and the kids don't respect him.

So I took Walt out into the hall and asked him what's going on.  I was surprised by his lack of response to me.  I even dared ask him if he understood English, he said he did.  Okay...so, what's going on?  I realize with hindsight that a teacher has probably never asked him this before.  He's had his study habits for a while.  But I remember those kids when I was in high school.  I felt sorry for them as prior teachers would talk to new teachers and the poor kid was doomed to always be pegged as a slacker, non-worker, sleeper, etc.  And I know those studies where they lie to teachers and tell them these students are star students where they're really weak students, but then drastically improve.  But not when I'm the teacher.  Everyone deserves a chance, maybe even two or three, especially when you're 17 or 18!

Eventually Walt spoke.  He felt there was no reason to try in my class because he was failing and there was no way he could pass. EUREKA!  That's it??? THAT'S IT??? Alright, he bit; he gave me information, now to use those people skills!  Walt, you came to the class late and are failing because you've never even tried.  You came in the first day, looked at me, and decided I wasn't worth your time.  I'm still willing to teach you, but YOU have to at least give me a week.  Pay attention for a week, I promise I say interesting things...it's psychology: we talk about all of you and how you feel, think, behave, and more!

After our talk, he returned to class with his head up.  He's kept up the behavior since, though the semester ended soon after.  But what a learning experience?  After studying psychology for the past 4 years I have come to one big conclusion: there is always a reason.  I find if I can expose those reasons for actions I don't understand, not only can I act with greater understanding, but I find it easier to resolve conflicts when I know what the cause might be.  Walt trusted me enough to explain, and thus, my hopes are restored.

So I treated the class with that e-mail in the same way: I trusted them.  Teaching, like parenting, takes immense trust.  I'm pleased to say that all but 4 of my students passed my class, which is high for our center.  Sure, my class is easier than Physics C, Stats, Econ, and the other APs, but I also made it a goal to pass them.  Which again, may seem strange, but if a student fails once (like most of the students have in years past...it's a flawed system) then if I can pass them, maybe it'll be the spark to rekindle their passion for learning.  It's hard to want to try when you feel there's no hope.

Which brings me to my semester goal: rekindle their passion for life.  These kids spend hours upon hours playing video games and doing not much else.  But these kids could be so interesting!  I've assigned them a chapter to read and questions to do as well as a special assignment: do something that inspires you over break.  I feel this is crucial as these kids are so burnt out that I fear for them next year.

It's going to be a very interesting semester.  I can't wait.

Saturday, January 7, 2012

New Year News and a Second Brithday

Okay, fine, I think you all deserve a happier post than the last one.

New Year's Eve found me at a wedding!  Tina, of the office staff, was getting married.  Well she had already had been certified, but had yet to have a proper ceremony.  We were greeted by people holding trays of candy and cigarettes (separate trays), but I couldn't believe the combination.  We greeted the beautiful bride and she shed a couple tears.  Which of course I pointed out was silly--she probably needed them for later (and she did!).

We (most of the staff + Steve's wife and adorable kids) were ushered to a tea house to wait, where they served jasmine green tea as many Sichuan tea houses do.  I, of course, am allergic to jasmine tea?  Or so I learned when younger.  We returned to the wedding and sat next to a runway-like structure on a table with some appetizers and food.

The lao wai (foreigners) were given the task of throwing paper rose petals as the bride walked down the runway--though they didn't exactly fly far.  Tina and her groom exchanged their vows; her groom translating his responses to an enthusiastic "I Do" or "Yeahh...".  Then the bride and groom poured wine into a glass that spilled over into a stack of other classes...like cutting cake together?  I dunno.  The 'service' ended and Tina disappeared and more food appeared.

Tina returned to the floor in a different dress and her husband had on his military uniform.  They went from table to table greeting all the guests and having toasts.  It was very nice of Tina to include us on her special day.

I returned home and said good-bye to Steve's kids, who refer to me as Uncle Johnny.  I spent the next 6 hours cleaning my apartment.  After Christmas Eve and all the cooking, I just never put my place fully back together.  But with the New Year, and possibly last year, looming, I decided it was a time to re-claim my space.  Finally finished, Cynthia and I opened some champagne and we headed downtown to meet up with Maggie, Lynette, Elliot, and Mike (who was visiting).

Confetti flew down at midnight and found me toasting new friends in a new country.  And then, of course, I flew back up to the dance floor.  Muse's dance floors, like many clubs, are small and about two feet above the floor--so when you dance everyone can see you.  Which if you have my level of extroversion, only makes dancing more fun.  I had on sunglasses, which don't seem so out of place with all the fog and lights.  When were out dancing, we always make it our mission to get other people dancing.  So I'll grab a couple and bring them on up and as I'm laowai, they'll often humor me--and then enjoy themselves.  I just can't imagine why anyone wouldn't want to dance, or should I say, why anyone who goes to a Chinese club with crazy cool lights could resist the urge to dance.  Or maybe--I just watched Step Up.

After Muse, we found ourselves eating delicious eggplant among other dishes before continuing the night at Jellyfish, a foreigner bar, where I was mistaken for being an Australian, which is fine by me.  In fact, people never guess I'm American when I'm out.  Somehow that feels like a good thing most of the time.  Though on the taxi home, the cab driver thought I was 40.  Usually I get 30, which is still high.  Guess facial hair adds a lot more age in China.

The evening ended, and I awoke on New Years Day quite restless, haven't not gotten much sleep.  Cynthia and I grabbed an epic massage.  Afterwards we could not move and felt quite drunk; Cynthia realized that perhaps this is what relaxed feels like.  We moved at a very very slow pace and eventually made some pizza and watched "My Best Friend's Wedding" and "When Harry Met Sally...".  So essentially, I entered the New Year as a couch potato.  But a very happy and relaxed couch potato!  I had heaps of grading due during this time, which caused much stress as I was also trying to plan out the final exam and other important assignments.  Relaxed and content with this New Year, I went to sleep.

On Tuesday, the 3rd, Cynthia and I had Gregory over for dinner.  He started calling me 'sonny-boy' or 'my son' early on in China, so naturally, he is now my father, but always pronounced in a Russian accent.  And eventually it came to light that Cynthia was his daughter, so we're a Russian-Kiwi/Malay-American family.  I produced a chocolate covered spice cake for desert and Cynthia made some lasagna.  It was a very nice dinner.  I also happened to finish grading the multiple choice questions of my midterm exam (after grading all the students papers and assignments the week prior).

On the 4th I finished grading the students midterms and gave the students time to use for their Final Exam presentations.  Their midterm essays were shockingly good and I was filled with hope, though most of the students failed the midterm (it was a hard one though).  I went out for dinner with Elliot and Androgeny: fish hot pot.  The fish was great, the presence of fish eyes was not.  Apparently I like fish...or at least fresh water fish sliced and added raw into a pot of oil with Sichuan peppers, pepper flakes, and pepper corns.  Thought I'm not a fan of fish bones!  I also discovered walnut milk; not entirely sure what that means, but it was milky and walnutty.  The hot pot made the chilly night better.

I awoke on the 5th, my 23rd birthday, in China!  Yeah it still surprises me sometimes.  I went to school in the afternoon and listened to student's presentations.  They were awful in my eyes, full of jokes and unnecessary media after I'd warned them of the latter. The students chatted the whole time and I eventually gave up on shushing them.  All of the presentations were too long and I had to stop them short.  It felt as if they all took it as a joke, though it has since come to my attention that some groups really did spend days on them--though I think the days part was more for the acquiring of pictures than of information.  After the last group, I walked slowly to the front of the class and they actually quieted down a bit.  They knew.  I was angry, but unlike my last angry lecture, I was calm.  I explained how rude they were to talk over each other and how it often seems like they don't respect each other or me.  I explained the break homework and then left as I was now late for my own birthday dinner. 

Maybe I was to hard on the students; maybe my expectations were to high.  But I know these students, we've worked for three months together, and I know they could've done better, much better.  Not sure how I am to grade them.

I found Cynthia waiting for me in the office urging me that we had to go (as she had to be back for evening study) so we left.  I wasn't sure where we were going, but I knew we were meeting Sarah's mother and Sarah for dinner.  Then outside a restaurant, I saw Steve and Simon.  "Cool," I thought, "they're coming too!"  Then I saw Sarah's mother and then Cynthia said, "Johnny, look!"

I turned to the back of the restaurant where Steve's wife and kids: Arwin, Emma, and Adam, Leon, Jessie, Charles, and Mark were sitting.  And there was a cake!  I couldn't believe it--but was so irritated at my students that I didn't give them the best surprise reaction.  Cynthia had organized the whole thing for me and I was caught quite unawares--I'd always wanted a surprise bday party on my birthday.  Dinner was dumplings, which were adequate, but I was quiet content.  Everyone sang, there were candles, and the cake was good.  THEN, Sarah's mom gave me a wrapped package, as did Steve's kids!  Steve said his kids think I'm an alcoholic--which stems back to Tina's wedding where Jessie decided to get the venue staff to give me a bottle of wine to take back that I defended from the other foreigners much to the children's delight--and gave me a bottle opener that's stuck to my fridge.

After dinner I walked with Sarah's mom, as Sarah was late from a meeting at Dipont.  She and her husband found us and went to dinner...with me!  So I ate again, though not much.  Sarah's mom wasn't full after the dumplings, though she had gestured that during the meal.  I opened the gift from Sarah's mom and found red socks with dragons on them--the ones I'm supposed to wear January 22nd for the start of the year of the dragon (my year!).  Sarah produced a gift from Tina, some sweets, and I was a very giddy boy.

(Sarah's mother is very sweet.  She urged me to buy a warm coat and said I had to if I wanted to visit her home over the break, so I did.  She has also told Sarah that I am too young to be on my own in China and that she admires how I try everything she serves to me when I have dinner at their home.  Sarah's mother know no English and if I could learn some Chinese, it would be for her to thank her for all her kind words, meals, and mom-ness.  It's always good to have mothers in our lives).

Cynthia finished evening study and we walked back to Zhong hai and went to August to hand out with Jerry and Cindy.  After some drinks, Jerry and Cindy said they'd take us to KTV.  I couldn't wait!  So we hopped on the bus, a tad tipsy, and eventually arrived to the KTV.  Two of Jerry's friends met us there and we booked a room at around 12:30AM for until 5:30AM.  I was sure we'd leave before then--we didn't.  We were the LAST people to leave.  But with so many songs to sing, how could we not stay!  From Gorillaz to Eminem ft. Rihanna to The Carpenters to George Michael and more, we sang for 5 hours while drinking beers and eating noodles.  A very Chinesey bday and way too much fun!  My voice gave a bit as the night wore on, but I was pleasantly surprised how long I can sing for.

We exited the KTV and thought that breakfast would be a good idea, but McDonald's wasn't serving breakfast yet, so we walked to another one which was closed and ended up at Dico's eating awful food, but very much enjoying life.  The buses had just started running around 6:30, when we ended up taxiing back.  I was home by 7:20AM and in bed by 7:45 as it looked light.

I awoke at 5:00PM to fading light, I cannot believe I slept the whole day though I probably needed it.

My birthday was wonderful.  Seeing all the staff at dinner was nice, getting a cake was nice (even if it is a Chinese cake--they don't understand moist), and having people give me gifts was too nice.  I felt spoiled, especially as I celebrated a Chinese lunar bday three weeks prior with my Chinese friends.  I am still at awe with how nice my bday was.  I feel very fortunate to be someone that can not only travel, but who can also meet nice and friendly folk.  And like my other 22, I found myself surrounded by loving people while blowing out candles and grinning ear-to-ear.

And that just makes smile more.